I’m living in a temporary location and only brought with me a very small Samsung Synchmaster that was about five years old. It served as the secondary monitor when I had a full office. When I lived at my old place, one of my neighbors calibrated my primary monitor for me, but he moved away about a month before I did. So I never got that second monitor calibrated at all.
Well, I got tired of that pretty quickly. Right after Christmas I bought some calibration hardware of my own, like I mentioned in my last post. Had some problems with it. Got a new monitor thinking there was a problem with the old Samsung, but it turned out that there was a problem with the Spyder itself. Datacolor replaced it and I spent this morning on the phone with a very knowledgeable fellow from Switzerland.
After talking to him and sorting through/solving issues, it occurs to me that I cannot be the only one who’s had a bastard of a time trying to calibrate an H233H. Lots of them were sold, and a few undoubtedly went to photographers who wanted to save a few bucks. I was unable to find any good assistance on the internet, but hopefully I’m about to post some and maybe others will find it in the search engines.
First off, the H233H is a budget monitor. You already know this. As such it’s not exactly suited to editing photos. Calibration makes a huge difference on this monitor so it’s definitely worth doing, but there are some things a calibration will not overcome. I’ll get to those later.
Okay. I hope you have the Spyder 3, and I hope you went ahead and got the Elite version. The “Pro” and “Express” versions don’t have all the necessary options, I don’t think. The Pro may and I may have forgotten. That’s what I actually bought, but mine was a rare defect and they replaced it with an Elite. Lucky me! I don’t know about any of the other pucks out there, so if you have one of those you may or may not find anything of interest here.
Step one. Darken your room. I mean it. That’s important.
When you start off, your Spyder software will ask you to select what controls you have. Do not check contrast, even though you do have a contrast control. Check only Brightness and RGB sliders.
Then, before you get to the actual calibration, you’ll come to a screen that tells you your monitor needs to have been on for half an hour, blah blah blah. I guess that’s important. But it says to reset your display to its default settings and that’s NOT what you want to do. Instead, go into your menu and under “Acer eColor Management”, select “Graphics”. If you choose user like I did or leave at the default (whatever that is), you’ll never reach your brightness target. Selecting graphics will increase the contrast to 60 and the brightness way, way up into the nineties. Next, you want to go to color temperature, which I think is “warm” by default. Change it to “User”.
After that go to the next screen in Datacolor’s software. The first thing you’ll do is change the color balance. Chances are the monitor’s menu has disappeared, so go back into it and go back to the color temperature. Hit menu again and you’ll be presented with a slider for R, G, and B. The software will help you do that and it’s easy enough. If your monitor is like mine (and why wouldn’t it be?), it’s too strong in the reds and greens and doesn’t have enough blue. Fixing that is pretty easy.
After you’ve balanced the color, the puck will do it’s readings for a while and then it’s time to set your brightness. This is where I was getting stuck before. The H233H would never reach the target brightness. And that’s why it was important to change that eColor thing before you started out, because with that done it’s easy to hit the target. In fact you will probably have to back off of the brightness by quite a bit.
So then you just let the puck finish its business, and at the end you save your profile. The next step is to look at the proofing screen. Now, things may look a bit funny to you at first. You’ve taken out quite a bit of both red and green so things may appear to have a cool hue. But let your eyes adjust to it for a while. Work a little bit, then open the software back up and go straight back to the proofs. If you’ve done everything right you’ll hopefully see neutral black and whites and good skin tone in the color photo.
Then go to Lagom and go through the screens. This is the first time I’ve had a cheap monitor that passed all the important tests on there. Reviews of the H233H will say it cannot represent darker grays, but after calibration it does just fine. The one Lagom test it will not pass is viewing angle.
And that’s one of the problems calibration can’t do much about. It’s a cheap monitor and you pretty much have to look straight on at it or things will get fucked. This display in particular is worse than most, unfortunately. The good thing about calibration is that it won’t look quite as bad. Before if I sat back in my chair the top of the monitor would get noticeably warmer. Now it shifts cooler and that sort of fits into the Windows environment a little better. It’s still inaccurate, of course, so keep the photo you’re editing in the middle of the screen and just look at it straight on. The other thing calibration can do nothing about is the color gamut. Inexpensive monitors just can’t cover a lot of ground, color-wise, and that’s all there is to it. You should get all of sRGB, at least. You will not come close to Adobe RGB or True Color, of course. You need a very expensive monitor to do that.
When I get into a more permanent living situation, I’m going to throw away my old Sony CRT monitor and buy a good flat panel. The Acer H233H will be a pretty good second monitor in a dual monitor setup.